We had been on the road for just over a month and a half on our travel around Australia in 185 days, and had covered a lot of territory during this time. We’d already travelled from the Gold Coast down the New South Wales coastline to Victoria and the Limestone Coast of South Australia until we reached Adelaide.

The next part of our trip involved going inland to check out one of the grape growing and vineyard areas of South Australia before reaching the Yorke Peninsula. The Clare Valley did not disappoint and although it is possibly the Barossa Valley’s poor cousin, we found it to be a charming and historically interesting region.

DAYS 47 & 48 – AUBURN, CLARE VALLEY

Clare in the Clare Valley

Distance: From Clarendon 130Kms

Where we stayed: Auburn Showgrounds

Cost: Approx $15 per night

Campground Facilities:

• Toilets/Showers
• Laundry
• Camp Kitchen
• Power & Water
• Walk into town

Local Attractions

• Historical town of Auburn
• Clare Valley Wineries
• Bike track on old railway line
• Historical town of Mintaro and Martindale Hall
• Seven Hills Winery and Monastry

Hot Tip: The live-in hosts at this caravan park were extremely friendly and hospitable. They organized happy hours drinks amongst the other guests every afternoon. Spend a few days here as the Clare Valley was an amazing area full of history and wonderful historical towns with heritage-listed buildings. The wineries weren’t bad either!

Read more about our time in the Clare Valley here

DAY 49 – ARDROSSAN, YORKE PENINSULA

Sunset view from our free camp spot in Ardrossan

Distance: From Auburn 106Kms

Where we Stayed: Parking Area near Ardrossan Pier (overnight stop only)

Cost: FREE

Parking Area Facilities:

• Grassy area with shady trees
• Toilets
• BBQs
• Picnic Tables
• Near beach and pier

Local Attractions:

• Fishing off the pier
• Crabbing at low tide on the beach
• Crabbing with Crab Pots off the pier
• Boating
• Red steep cliffs

HOT TIP: Make sure you buy a couple of cheap crab pots and try your luck catching a few crabs for dinner.

For more information on the Yorke Peninsula see my post titled Tracing the Coastline of South Australia

DAY 50 – PORT GERMEIN (NORTH OF PORT PIRIE)

Moonta Jetty

Distance: From Ardrossan via Moonta 190Kms

Where we Stayed: Park at Port Germein (overnight stop only)

Cost: Free

Park Facilities:

• Toilets
• BBQ
• Picnic Tables
• Children’s Playground

Local Attractions:

• Port Germein Jetty
• Crabbing
• Fishing
• Flinders Ranges

HOT TIP: We spent most part of the day at the historical copper mining town of Moonta on the Yorke Peninsula. It was well worth exploring the abandoned mines, railway station and mining museum in the area, as was tasting Moonta’s famous Cornish pasties and learning about Moonta’s Cornish heritage.

DAY 51 – COWELL, EYRE PENINSULA

Putting the bait in the crab pot at Cowell Jetty

We left Port Germein very early and kept travelling north following the Spencer Gulf up to Port Augusta and then headed south onto the Eyre Peninsula via Whyalla and eventually reaching Cowell in the late afternoon.

Distance: From Port Germain 250Kms

Where we Stayed: Harbour View Caravan Park, Cowell

Cost: $29 per night powered site

Caravan Park Facilities:

• Natural bush setting
• Views over Franklin Harbour
• Toilets & Showers
• Laundry
• Camp Kitchen
• Solar Heated Swimming Pool
• Boat Ramp nearby
• Pet Friendly
• Minutes to Cowell township

Local Attractions:

• Franklin Harbour
• Boating and fishing
• Foreshore and Mangrove Boardwalk
• Beaches nearby
• Point Gibbon (seal colony and white sand dunes)
• Drive to Arno Bay
• Oyster Farming

HOT TIP: We were given some local oysters by a guest at the caravan park which were absolutely delicious so make sure you try some!

DAY 52– TUMBY BAY, EYRE PENINSULA

The esplanade and jetty at Tumby Bay

Distance: From Cowell 114Kms

Where we Stayed: Tumby Bay Self Contained RV Park

Cost: $7.50 per vehicle per night

Park Facilities:

• Toilets
• Dump Point
• Water
• Dog Friendly
• Adjoining Golf Course

Local Attractions:

• Sandy Beaches
• Jetty
• Boating and Fishing
• Golf
• Clydesdale Horse & Trolley Tour
• Grassy Tree-lined Foreshore with BBQ and picnic facilities
• Waterfront Cafes and Restaurants

HOT TIP: Pull up along the long stretch of road along the beachfront and relax in the park and have a swim or fish in the sea. Enjoy a lunch of locally caught King George Whiting at one of the cafes on the waterfront.

DAYS 53 to 60– PORT LINCOLN, EYRE PENINSULA

Cleaning a nice catch of King George Whiting at the Caravan Park at Port Lincoln

Distance: From Tumby Bay 49kms

Where we Stayed: Port Lincoln Tourist Park

Cost: $32 per night powered site

Caravan Park Facilities:

• Toilets and Showers
• Laundry
• Camp Kitchen
• BBQs and Picnic Tables
• Fish Cleaning Table
• Boat Ramp
• Waterfront
• Sandy Beach
• Children’s Playgrounds
• Free WiFi
• Kiosk
• Pet Friendly

Local Attractions:

• Boating and Fishing
• Drive to Whalers Way
• Swim with Tuna
• Boat Cruises
• Maritime Museum
• Walking Paths
• Seafood Factory Tour
• Diving with Great White Sharks
• Swimming with Seals
• Glen Forest Tourist Park
• Lincoln National Park
• Boston Bay
• Drive to Coffin Bay
• Visit Makybe Diva Statue in town

HOT TIP: Port Lincoln is the seafood capital of Australia. Make sure you taste some of the locally farmed Tuna, freshly caught King George Whiting and the Oysters are to die for!

For more reading on the Eyre Peninsula click here

DAY 61 – DRUMMOND POINT, EYRE PENINSULA

Our remote free camp spot on the cliff of Drummond Point

Distance: From Port Lincoln 103 kms

Where We Stayed:  Drummond Point cliff

Cost: FREE

Camping Area Facilities:

• Free camping on steep cliff overlooking a spectacular stretch of white sandy beach
• Boat ramp
• No facilities but a breathtaking spot to camp that we shared with only one other camper

Local Attractions:

• Coffin Bay and Coffin Bay National Park nearby
• Boating and fishing
• Rugged Eyre Peninsula cliffs and bays
• There are many beaches off the beaten track, including Farm Beach, Greenly Beach, Convention Beach and Picnic Beach.
• Lake Hamilton and the historic Lake Hamilton Eating House ruins

HOT TIP: There are many of these free camping areas along the western side of the Eyre Peninsula that are accessible by 4WD and most caravans. Use your Wikicamps App to find out where they are.

DAY 62 – SHERINGA BEACH, EYRE PENINSULA

Sand dunes and beach at Sheringa Beach

Distance: From Drummond Point 55kms

Where We Stayed: Sheringa Beach Camping Area

Cost: Permits are $10 per vehicle per night obtainable from the Sheringa Roadhouse

Facilities: Basic bush camping with no facilities, but well sheltered from the beach by sand dunes.

Local Attractions:

• Sheringa Roadhouse is rather quirky and has a licensed restaurant and bar
• Salmon fishing off the beach
• Pristine white sandy beaches
• Sand dune quad biking
• Surfing and diving
• Leo Cummings Monument and Lookout at Kiana

HOT TIP: If you want seclusion in a nicely sheltered beach camping area then this spot is perfect. There’s also great fishing here.

DAY 63 to 66 – STREAKY BAY, EYRE PENINSULA

The dramatic coastline near Streaky Bay

After we left our couple of beachside free camping areas we headed for Streaky Bay so that we could replenish our supplies, do some laundry and stay in the comfort of a caravan park. However, we couldn’t get a caravan site the first night so had to spend one night at a rest area just outside the town of Streaky Bay. The next day we were able to get a caravan site for three nights. We had no idea that Streaky Bay would be so popular, but we soon discovered that this area is blessed with many incredible natural attractions and wonderful fishing spots.

Distance from Sheringa 168kms

Where We Stayed: Streaky Bay Foreshore Caravan Park

Cost: $31 powered site

Caravan Park Facilities:

• Waterfront views
• Camp Kitchen
• BBQs
• Activity Room
• Kiosk
• Children’s Playground
• Laundry
• Pet friendly

Local Attractions:

• Murphys Haystacks rock formations
• Visit the Talia Caves
• Streaky Bay Jetty
• Sea Lions at Cape Labatt Conservation Park
• The Cape Bauer Loop Coastal Scenic Drive with the Whistling Rocks and Blowholes
• Westall Way Loop Coastal Scenic Drive with spectacular cliffs and beaches
• Swimming with dolphins and sea lions on a Baird Bay Ocean Eco Experience
• Day trips to Venus Bay and Elliston
• Feast on local seafood with delicious fresh oysters, abalone, scallops and a large variety of fin fish.
• Visit the Gawler Ranges

HOT TIP: There is plenty do in and around Streaky Bay and as it is so popular with travellers, ensure you book a caravan site ahead of time. We were only able to get 3 nights here.

For more reading on the Eyre Peninsula click here

DAY 67 & 68 – PERLUBIE BEACH, EYRE PENINSULA

Beach camping at Perlubie Beach

Distance: From Streaky Bay 21kms

Where We Stayed: Perlubie Beach Camp Area

Cost: $5 per person per night (honesty box)

Camping Ground Facilities:

• Toilets
• Showers
• Water Tap
• Grass roof shelters
• Camping right on the beach or above the beach in the carpark
• Pet friendly

Local Attractions:

• Long stretch of sandy beach ideal for walking
• Fishing off the beach
• Calm waters ideal for kayaking or boating
• Streaky Bay nearby

HOT TIP: You can easily tow your caravan onto the sandy beach here as the sand is reasonably firm.

DAY 69 – CEDUNA, EYRE PENINSULA

The foreshore and jetty in Ceduna

Distance: From Perlubie Beach 91kms

Where We Stayed: Big4 Ceduna Tourist Park

Cost: $30 per night powered site

Caravan Park Facilities:

• Camp Kitchen
• TV Room
• Fish Cleaning and Crab cooking facilities
• Free Gas BBQs
• Fully Equipped Laundry
• Easy 400 meter walk to Main Street Shopping and Beachfront.
• Pet Friendly

Local Attractions:

• Stroll along the 4 km Foreshore Walking Trail
• Boat Charters and fishing tours
• Catch your own fish or crabs or buy fresh from the local fishermen
• Enjoy local fresh oysters
• Explore National Parks either coastal or inland
• Visit the Arts and Cultural centre featuring local artists.
• See a collection of pioneering memorabilia at the Historical museum.
• Gateway to the Nullarbor Plain

HOT TIP: Make sure you stock up on provisions, fuel and water in Ceduna prior to crossing the Nullarbor Plain. Fuel is very expensive once you hit the Nullarbor.

DAY 70 – PENONG, NULLARBOR PLAIN

Surfing hotspot at Cactus Beach near Penong

Distance: From Ceduna 75kms

Where We Stayed: Penong Caravan Park

Cost: $30 per night approx.

Caravan Park Facilities:

• Drive through caravan sites (so you don’t need to unhitch)
• Laundry
• TV Room
• BBQs
• Pet Friendly

Local Attractions:

• Adjacent ‘Australia’s Biggest’ Windmill/Museum
• Penong Woolshed
• Cactus Beach (world renowned surfing spot)
• Point Sinclair
• The pink salt Lake McDonnell
• General Store, Pub, Cafe & Roadhouse (24 hr fuel)

HOT TIP: Take a drive out to Cactus Beach surfing beach and Point Sinclair 21kms west of Penong. 4WD drive only on corrugated dirt roads, but fully worth the drive.

To learn more about crossing the Nullarbor Plain see my post Nullarbor Plain, South Australia

DAY 71 – BUNDA CLIFFS, NULLARBOR PLAIN

Views of the Bunda Cliffs from our camp spot on the Nullarbor

Distance: From Penong 334kms

Where We Stayed: Bunda Cliffs Scenic Lookout

Cost: FREE

Parking Area Facilities: There are many of these parking/rest areas scattered along the Eyre Highway across the Nullarbor Plain. They are marked as the distance they are from Border Village on the South Australian/West Australian border and are referred to as ??k Peg Rest Area or Parking Area. These areas are ideal for breaking up the long journey across the Nullarbor Plain and are suitable for all manner of vehicles, caravans or camper trailers. Most have no facilities, except maybe a rubbish bin and a picnic table.

Local Attractions:

• The magnificent Bunda Cliffs extend approximately 100km along the Great Australian Bight from Border Village to the east of Head of Bight. There are many parking areas and lookouts where you can capture the beauty of these cliffs along the Eyre Highway.
• Head of Bight is 217kms west of Penong and around 200kms east of Border Village and is one of the most spectacular whale watching sites in South Australia.
• Make sure you hit a golf ball at the world’s longest golf course, the Nullarbor Links, at each hole across the expanse of the Nullarbor, commencing at Ceduna and finishing at Kalgoorlie. The holes are located at the various Roadhouses and Rest Stops on the Eyre Highway.

HOT TIP: The drive across the Nullarbor is 1,365 kms from Ceduna in South Australia to Kalgoorlie in Western Australia. Break up the trip into manageable portions stopping along the way like we did.

Emus on the Nullarbor Plain

We had finally hit the Nullarbor and we were getting excited about crossing the South Australian border into West Australia. What we discovered on our journey across the Nullarbor was that it wasn’t boring or unscenic. In fact it was the opposite. We saw plenty of wildlife, including emus, camels, kangaroos and birdlife and colourful low lying vegetation and even a few trees.

The distance we’d covered since leaving Adelaide was 1,686kms (plus day trips) over a period of just over 3 weeks. The biggest highlight for me was the wild and rugged beauty of the Eyre Peninsula and the extraordinary seafood that can devoured here. It was everything I’d heard about plus more!

We continued our crossing of the Nullarbor into West Australia and I will be bringing this to you on the next instalment of our travels around Australia.