8 Days in Borneo
Borneo is the third-largest island in the world, located in Southeast Asia at the heart of the Malay Archipelago. The island is shared by three countries: Indonesia, Malaysia, and Brunei. Indonesia controls the largest portion, known as Kalimantan, while Malaysia occupies the northern states of Sabah and Sarawak. The tiny but wealthy sultanate of Brunei sits along the island’s northern coast. I actually visited its capital, Bandar Seri Begawan as part of a South East Asia cruise in 2016.
Borneo’s strategic location between the South China Sea and the Celebes Sea has long made it an important crossroads for trade, exploration, and culture. It is where I chose to visit on a TripADeal “Best of Borneo” tour recently. I was soon to discover what treasures this island possessed.
Borneo’s Geography
Geographically, Borneo is dominated by dense tropical rainforest, some of the oldest on Earth. The island’s interior is rugged and mountainous, cut by mighty rivers such as the Kapuas River and the Mahakam River that wind through jungle lowlands and serve as vital transport routes for remote communities. Vast swamp forests, mangroves, and peatlands add to the island’s complex topography, creating diverse ecosystems.
However, over the past two decades a large percentage of the rainforest has been decimated to make way for the palm oil industry. Driving through the interior of the island reveals that these expansive palm tree plantations continue as far as the eye can see. Although, the palm oil industry has been a lifesaver for the economy of Borneo, it has come at a price and impacted tremendously on the environment.
“Several studies have found a significant reduction (in the order of 80% for plants and 80-90% for mammals, birds, and reptiles) in biological diversity following forest conversion to oil palm plantation. Furthermore, many animals will not move through plantations while others, like orangutans, become crop pests putting them at risk of defensive poaching by plantation managers.” ~ Source: World Rainforests.
Borneo Wildlife
Borneo’s wildlife is among the richest and most unique on the planet. The island is one of the last strongholds of the endangered Bornean orangutan, a gentle great ape that spends most of its life in the forest canopy. Other remarkable animals include the proboscis monkey with its distinctive long nose, the world’s smallest bear – the sun bear, the elusive clouded leopard, and the Bornean pygmy elephant. Birdlife is equally spectacular, with hornbills, kingfishers, and hundreds of endemic species thriving in the rainforest.
During my visit, I was fortunate to see most of these animals in their natural habitats, or otherwise in protected sanctuaries. Although some of Borneo’s native animals are diminishing in numbers, there are some initiatives to combat Illegal poaching and trade of certain animals, like sun bears, orangutans and pygmy elephants.
There is also a push to protect tracts of rainforest and natural animal habitats by creating wildlife corridors and building strategic fencing to connect forest patches through palm plantations.
Sandakan
Our flight out of Kuala Lumpur took us to Sandakan, located on Sabah’s northeast coast in Borneo. Sandakan is known for its wildlife centres and wartime history. During my two day stay here I was treated to some remarkable animal encounters.
It is a busy port town, offering a scenic waterfront promenade lined with restaurants that specialise in seafood dishes. There are a couple of Sandakan attractions that are worthwhile visiting, including: Agnes Keith House, the English Tea House, the Sandakan Memorial Park and Goddess of Mercy Chinese temple.
Major attractions in Sandakan include the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, Rainforest Discovery Centre (RDC), and the Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary.
Seplilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre
On day two of my tour I set off to the nearby Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre. I walked out through the rainforest along a boardwalk where I encountered some orangutans on a purpose-built platform. Then continued to the indoor viewing area for the orangutan feeding hour. There were at least ten orangatans here, including mothers with babies and a large alpha male. He got first dibs of the food.
Once the orangutans were seemingly finished eating, a large group of pig-tailed macaques emerged from the jungle and helped themselves to the leftover food. It was extremely entertaining.
On my way back to the centre, I observed another orangutan feeding but on the open-air platform where there were a couple of orangutans and one mother with a small baby. But once again the macaques were waiting to seize the opportunity of a free feed.
Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre
Only a short stroll away, I visited the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre, where there was once again elevated boardwalks to observe several sun bears in their open-air enclosures. I was informed that these small bears are often poached. Primarily this illegal practice is because of the demand for their gall bladders and paws in traditional Asian medicine and cuisine, as well as the illegal pet trade.
I was once again witnessed their feeding time of selected fruits and vegetables, where I got a closer look at these beautiful creatures. The bears are typically black and tan with a unique crest on their chests that is leopard-print patterned. They often stand up on their forelegs and can look rather intimidating.
Rainforest Discovery Centre
After a hearty lunch at a nearby restaurant I got back on the bus and made our way to the Rainforest Discovery Centre where I embarked on a short hike. The tour guide, Brendan led my group to the rainforest skywalk where we were high above the rainforest canopy. From here we could get a bird’s eye view of birdlife and other small tree-dwelling mammals.
There are also a network of inter-looping nature trails that provide easy access into the forest at the centre. Along the trails there are interpretive signage giving valuable information about the flora and fauna of the rainforest.
Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary
On day three of the tour we headed out of Sandakan to the Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary for more primate feeding and spotting. These fascinating primates with their big dangling noses, and crop of red hair on their heads, come in from the protected forest to feed. The interesting fact is that the males have a harem of up to 20 females to choose from. As you can imagine there are sometimes fights over females from other prospective males trying to make a move on the females!
Sandakan Death March
I discovered that Borneo played a significant role during World War II. Japanese forces invaded Borneo in 1941 due to its valuable oil resources and strategic position. One of the most tragic episodes occurred near Sandakan, where Allied prisoners of war were forced on the brutal Sandakan Death Marches in 1945.
During my time in Sandakan the tour group visited the Sandakan War Memorial Garden where the tragic World War II tale of the Sandakan Death Marches unfolded. The garden is actually set on the original POW camp where the prisoners were put to work building the Sandakan Airport. It is also the starting point of where the marches began.
The clearly sign-posted Sandakan Memorial Park is well maintained and beautifully landscaped. This makes it an emotive and reflective experience thinking of the atrocities that befell the POWs. The park also includes a small museum that serves as a memorial to the 2,400 Australian and British who lost their lives at the hands of the Japanese during WWII.
Kinabatangan River
Following my encounter with the proboscis monkeys, the group headed to Sukau to the second largest river in Malaysia, the Kinabatangan River. The river and surrounding forests have some of the richest biodiversity in Malaysia, where you can spot a plethora of wildlife in their natural habitat.
I was transported to our accommodation at Bilik Rainforest Lodge by boat, and was allotted a timber log cabin for the two night stay. The cabins were cosy and comfortable, well equipped, all completely separate, and connected via a series of board walks. Beyond the lodge it was natural rainforest. I discovered that the rainforest was brimming with macaques, squirrels and birdlife.
During our days here I was treated to three boat cruise adventures out onto the wide river and tributaries spotting wildlife. I saw many varieties of monkeys, including proboscis, pig tailed macaques, long tailed macaques and silvered leaf monkeys. There was a huge variety of birds too, like the hornbill, kingfisher, egret and eagle.
Also, I observed a baby crocodile basking on the river banks in the mud and probably, the biggest highlight, the opportunity to see a pygmy elephant bull having an afternoon bath in the river.
On the second day at the lodge, my group jumped on the bus and travelled to the nearby limestone Gomantong Caves, home to swiftlets, bats and kingfishers. The walk into the caves was through dense rainforest where I saw more monkeys and birdlife.
Our tour guide had forewarned me that the caves were dank, dark and infested with bats and cockroaches. Upon entering the cave the smell of bat poo was overwhelming and in places there were loads of cockroaches. I quickly completed the loop on the boardwalk and got the hell out of there!
Ranau & Crocker Ranges
On the fifth day of the tour, the bus drove through vast palm plantations and commenced the ascent into the Crocker Ranges. Prior to arriving at our destination, we stopped at Kampung Luanti Baru for a natural fish spa in the Moroli River. It was a weird sensation, and often very ticklish, having one’s feet nibbled at by hundreds of carp in the river.
Eventually reaching Sabah Tea Plantation, the groups digs for the night. Here we were immediately treated to a lovely buffet lunch in the restaurant. The views out over the tea plantations towards Mount Kinabalu were breathtaking. There were many spots on the plantation to take some great photos.
In addition to be a working tea plantation and processing factory, Sabah Tea Plantation is also a resort. There are a variety of bungalow type accommodations on the estate, from the guesthouse bungalows, long houses, to cottages. I was put up in the cute little cottage amongst beautifully landscaped gardens.
Apart from taking a tour of the estate and tea processing factory, you can experience traditional tea harvesting, pick up some of the organic tea in the shop, climb up the treehouse, stroll through the estate or visit the Ranch at Sabah Tea.
Kundasang
The bus took us from the Sabah Tea Plantation to Kundasang through hilly terrain. This small picturesque town is located along the banks of Kundasang Valley in the Ranau Valley.
Towering above the northern landscape is Mount Kinabalu, a dramatic granite peak rising more than 4,000 meters and the highest mountain in Malaysia. It’s very popular for hikers with a 2-day/1-night climb. The 8.5km Mount Kinabalu trail winds its way all the way up to the summit.
Our stop here in Kundasang was to visit the Kundasang Memorial Gardens. This was one of the first memorials built to commemorate the 2,428 Australian and British Prisoners of War who died in the Sandakan Death Marches.
The park is made up of four beautiful gardens – the Australian Garden, the English Garden, the Borneo Garden and the Contemplation Garden and Pool – to represent the different nationalities. Prior to entering the gardens I watched a short documentary about the Sandakan Death Marches, that was not only educational, but extremely heart rending and a reminder of the atrocities of war.
The bus continued to Kinabalu National Park for a guided walk in the botanical garden where I had the opportunity to photograph native plants, carnivorous plants and wild orchids.
Kota Kinabalu
The capital of Sabah, the city of Kota Kinabalu serves as a gateway to beaches and islands in the Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park. The bus arrived here late afternoon after another picturesque drive through the mountains.
I was treated to a 3 night stay here at the Hilton Hotel, that was perfectly located near shopping centres, outdoor markets and the waterfront. After checking into my beautiful luxurious room, I met some of my new friends and we explored the city together. The afternoon ended with cocktails at a waterfront bar enjoying the stunning sunset.
Manukan Island
It was only a short boat ride to Manukan Island the next morning, for a day of swimming and snorkelling. Manukan Island is the second largest island in the Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park. The 21-hectare tropical island offers lovely beaches, dense jungle interior and walking trails.
The waters just off the main beach were a little murky, and did not offer much variety of marine life. One of our group discovered a better spot to snorkel further out. Here there were coral gardens and loads of colourful fish and marine creatures. It was fully worth the swim to reach this small reef offshore.
After two snorkels, my group were treated to a delicious lunch of skewers with seafood, chicken and beef, at the resort restaurant. Once our lunch settled in our bellies, our boat returned us back to Kota Kinabalu.
Mari-Mari Cultural Village
The following morning, I enjoyed a huge buffet breakfast at the hotel, and boarded the bus for a tour of the Mari-Mari Cultural Village. This village is set in the dense rainforest about 25 minutes drive from Kota Kinabalu.
The village operates as a living museum that preserves Bornean ethnic culture. It shares the knowledge, history, culture, and tradition of Borneo with linked tribal homes set in the jungle. It offered the opportunity to see and experience the culture and lifestyle of how the indigenous ethnic groups of Borneo used to live, including the headhunters.
Our group was able to taste some of the traditional food, sip rice wine, try dart shooting with a blowpipe, dance with the locals and greet the tribal leaders. After the fully guided tour, we were all treated to a music and traditional dance performance.
Some of the other things to do and see in Kota Kinabalu include:
– Central Market
– Masjid Bandaraya Mosque
– Lok Kawi Wildlife Park
– Sabah State Museum
– Tanjung Aru Beach
– Signal Hill Observatory Tower
– Sabah State Mosque
The Best of Borneo
Beyond the rainforest, Borneo offers stunning coastal landscapes. White-sand beaches line the shores of Sabah and Sarawak, while coral reefs flourish in surrounding seas. Offshore islands such as Sipadan Island have become world-famous diving destinations. Sipadan’s underwater walls teem with sea turtles, barracuda, reef sharks, and swirling schools of tropical fish, making it one of the most celebrated dive sites on the planet.
From ancient jungles and towering mountains to coral reefs and historic towns, Borneo remains one of the world’s great adventure destinations. If you’re a nature lover like me, who seeks wildlife encounters, cultural discovery, and unspoiled nature, this remarkable island offered an incredible journey into one of Earth’s last great wildernesses.
Although, I couldn’t fault the TripADeal itinerary, nor the tour guide and bus driver, the accommodation in Sandakan was a little sub-standard. The other downside were the prolonged waiting times at airports to catch connecting flights. On our arrival into Kuala Lumpur at 4am we had a six hour wait until the flight to Sandakan. I feel that there were possibly better flight options. Otherwise I would give this group tour a score of 8/10.
Quick Facts About Borneo
📍 Location: Southeast Asia at the heart of the Malay Archipelago
🕰️ History: In the 15th Century the Sultanate of Brunei ruled, and then the British North Borneo Company was established in 1882, until the Japanese invaded in 1942. Once again falling into the British hand’s until 1963, when North Borneo joined with Malaya, Sarawak, and Singapore to form the Federation of Malaysia.
👥 Population: 5.97 million
💼 Major Industries: Palm oil production, oil and gas extraction, timber/logging, and mining.
🌆 Must-See Sights: Mount Kinabalu, orangutans at the Sepilok Rehabilitation Centre, exploring the biodiversity of the Kinabatangan River, and diving at Sipadan Island
🍲 What to Eat: Tuaran mee a noodle dish, Ambuyat made from sago palm, Kelupis a traditional snack, Cincin or ring cakes, Nasi kombos a rice dish.
🌤️ Best Time to Visit: Dry season from March to October.
🚆 Getting There: Flights via Kuala Lumpur to Kota Kinabalu or Sandakan are operated by Malaysia Airlines, AirAsia, and Singapore Airlines.
🏞️ Nearby Escapes: Kuching, Batang Ai, Bako and Mulu in Sarawak. Visit any of the five islands which make up Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park. Diving at Sipadan Island.
