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5 Perfect Days in Positano

  • September 26, 2017
  • By 50 Shades
  • 26 Comments
5 Perfect Days in Positano

Sadly our five week Italian holiday was getting to the pointy end and we had less than a week before we had to return home. Italy had been an absolute delight and we were looking forward to the final stage of our trip to Italy’s Amalfi Coast. So we grabbed the high-speed train from Florence to Naples to spend 5 perfect days in Positano.

On arrival at the extremely busy Naples train station, we fortunately had booked a driver to meet us to negotiate the 57km drive along the scenic Amalfi Coast road, that clings to the steep cliffs with many twists and turns. The road is impossibly narrow with tunnels dug through some of the mountains that touch the sea, but every now and again we caught glimpses of the breathtaking coastline. We eventually reached Positano and snaked our way uphill to our Airbnb accommodation, set high above the village of Positano in the hamlet of Montepertuso.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Sunset view from our Airbnb apartment

Montepertuso

On arrival we were met by our host, Salvatore, who without flinching threw my large heavy suitcase up on one shoulder and set off down a hundred or more stairs, threading his way through narrow laneways. Five minutes later we were welcomed to our small B&B apartment by our hostess Nunzia and shown around. Both of us gaped with open mouths as we saw the amazing view afforded from our bedroom and small balcony. We could not only see the village of Positano but the panorama of the Amalfi Coast, the deep turquoise seas and offshore islands.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Views from the balcony of our apartment in Montepertuso

We found the village of Montepertuso was as if time stood still. It was small but charming and offered splendid views, along with some good restaurants (with panoramic terraces, perfect at sunset!) After spending five days here we started to feel like one of the locals and after scaling the hundred or so steps up to the roadside to catch the local bus, we said hello to many of the villagers sitting enjoying the morning sunshine.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

One of the restaurants in Montepertuso

Its name comes from the massive natural hole in the rock (Montepertuso means “pierced rock” literally).

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Hole in the rock overlooking Montepertuso

If you are feeling up to a nice stair descent there are 1500 stairs to the bottom to Positano. However it is a scenic walk with plenty of places to rest and take in the breathtaking views on the walk down.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

The stairs downhill from Montepertuso to Positano

Even further uphill from Monteperuso is the sleepy ancient hamlet of Nocelle. Resting at 400 metres above sea level, it enjoys nice views amidst the terraced hillsides and is one of the places along the Amalfi Coastline where you can access The Path of The Gods walking track. More about that later……

5 Perfect Days in Positano

The village of Nocelle

Positano

After settling into our small apartment and enjoying a drink out on our balcony breathing in the spectacular views, we dined at one of the local restaurants. The next morning we arose early, ate a hearty breakfast and set off down the 1500 stairs to Positano. Along the way we stopped to take in the views and snap photos. After what seemed like forever, we came to the cobbled little streets lined with shops and market stalls, then to a church with a small square and continued down more stairs to Positano beach and harbour front.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Views of Positano on the walk down 1500 stairs

Possibly one of the most photographed towns along the Amalfi Coast, perched on a steep mountainside with ‘gelato’ coloured buildings adorned with flower boxes and a stoney little beach, Positano is as pretty as a picture.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Bird’s eye view of Positano

Basically everywhere you walk, there is a scenic vista, a quaint little villa or a blaze of colourful umbrellas or floral display.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

One of the shaded laneways in Positano

5 Perfect Days in Positano

One of the restaurants on the promenade

There are a number of resort-style clothing boutiques, souvenir shops selling lemon products, ceramic shops and art galleries.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Clothing Shop in Positano

There are an abundance of restaurants, pizzerias and bars where you can perch yourself to people watch and observe the hundreds of boats and ferries buzzing in and out of this busy little harbour.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Positano Shopping Street

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Positano village

The beach is a little rocky and tough on your bare feet, but the water is crystal clear and nice for a dip. Otherwise you can head around the rocky headland to another quieter little beach for a swim and sunbake.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Colourful umbrellas on Positano Beach

Amalfi & Ravello

On our first full day in Positano we found it easy to jump on one of the many water ferries to the town of Amalfi, which was only a short 25 minute trip. Amalfi is the coast’s busiest town, as we could already ascertain by the amount of ferries and crowds emerging onto the large jetty.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Amalfi from the water

We strolled along the promenade and eventually came to a beach area where there were already hundreds of tourists sunbaking.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Beach at Amalfi

We discovered the town had a small square with a fountain and a magnificent Arab-Norman cathedral, called the Cathedral of St. Andrew, which was built in the early 1200s.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Interesting Fountain in Amalfi Square

5 Perfect Days in Positano

The Cathedral of St. Andrew in Amalfi

There are also shops aplenty and restaurants lining the esplanade, where you can grab a bite to eat and watch the world go by.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

The beautiful promenade in Amalfi

After we had walked around Amalfi for a while we decided to get a local bus up the mountainside to the village of Ravello. With a magnificent setting on a mountain buttress overlooking the Bay of Salerno, the ravishing town of Ravello remains aloof from the madness of Amalfi 350 metres below.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Magical views from the village of Ravello

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Strolling around Ravello

Its shady gardens, exquisite villas, quiet lanes and sense of faded grandeur exudes a slower pace of life. The main Ravello tourist attractions are the two famous gardens, Villa Cimbrone and Villa Rufolo. Both of these panoramic gardens are open to the public, and you can wander through the exotic flora and enjoy fabulous views of the coastline. All I could think was what an amazing place this would make for a garden wedding.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

One of the beautiful villas and gardens in Ravello

The world renowned musical festival is held in Ravello every year, with classical music concerts taking place in gardens with breathtaking views, all through the summer months. Wagner was certainly inspired by the beauty of Ravello!

5 Perfect Days in Positano

The remains of a castle in Ravello

5 Perfect Days in Positano

A Ravello Restaurant with magnificent views

Capri

An absolute must-do when on the Amalfi Coast is a day trip over to the Island of Capri. Located in Italy’s Bay of Naples, it’s between a 20 to 60 minute ferry or boat ride from Positano, depending on the speed of the boat.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

The Grand Harbour at the island of Capri

Capri is famed for its rugged landscape, upscale hotels and shopping, from designer fashions to handmade leather sandals. But also renowned for the Blue Grotto, a dark cavern where the sea glows electric blue, and attracts thousands of tourists by boat.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Speedboats in Capri Harbour

Once we disembarked from our ferry we caught the funicular to reach the Piazzetta, located in the historic centre of Capri, where there is a clock tower and narrow streets lined with shops and cafes.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Views back over Grand Harbour from the Piazetta

https://www.50shadesofage.com/2017/09/07/the-all-encompassing-cinque-terre/

The clocktower at the Piazetta

After a quick look around we caught the local bus further up the hilltop to Anacapri located on a high plateau on the slopes of Mt Solaro.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

The main square in Anacapri

We found Anacapri to be enchanting with its pretty whitewashed buildings, picturesque alleys and little, to no traffic.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

One of the hotels and restaurants in Anacapri

There were a couple of streets overflowing with tourists and souvenir shops, but away from these places it was easy to find a tranquil, ‘villagey’ atmosphere.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

The enchanting streets of Anacapri

We embarked on a sign-posted walking tour of the village where we saw Villa San Michele, a picturesque building, perched on the mountainside looking down over the lower half of Capri.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Villa San Michele

The church of Chiesa di San Michele, with a renowned eighteenth-century majolica (painted ceramic) floor.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Church in Anacapri

The Casa Rossa or ‘Red House’ which was built for an American colonel from New Orleans who lived here at the end of the nineteenth century.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

The Red House in Anacapri

After we strolled around for a while we encountered these beautiful gardens which also had a viewing platform with the most majestic sea views.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Anacapri Gardens with a view

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Views from Anacapri

Anacapri was simply stunning! After spending most part of the day here we made our way back down to Capri and enjoyed a swim at the white rocky beach.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

The beach at Capri Island

The Path of The Gods & Praiano

On our second last day we decided to take on The Path of The Gods or the Sentiero degli Dei, high above Positano and the Amalfi Coast. We caught the local bus uphill to the village of Nocelle and eventually found the entry to the walking trail.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

The entrance to the Path of The Gods at Nocelle

The Path of The Gods passes through the most fascinating gorges, cliffs and precipices of the Amalfi Coast. It runs from east to west between the hamlet of Nocelle, the highest neighbourhood of Positano, and Bomerano in the Agerola district. However we made the decision we would walk as far as Praiano, a distance of approximately 5.6 kms, that took us around 3 hours.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Views from The Path of The Gods at Nocelle

5 Perfect Days in Positano

A section of the Path of The Gods

Once we set off along the walking trail the pure spectacle of the Amalfi coastline captivated us at every turn.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Path of The Gods panorama

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Here we are at the top of the Amalfi Coast!

We hiked past towering limestone mountains, colourful wildflowers, and ancient abandoned stone houses, through forests and meadows of long grasses.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Terraced fields and an old farmhouse

We discovered that farmers still grow vines on terraces carved into the hillside, using donkeys for transport along the narrow pathways.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

An old convent perched high above Praiano

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Views of Praiano from The Path of The Gods

Once we got to the top of the village of Praiano we decided to terminate the walk here and trudge down the 1700 stairs to this lovely little place. After what seemed like hours of calve-burning downhill stairs we eventually came to the narrow cobbled laneways of Praiano.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Stairs down to the village of Praiano

We found Praiano was a little different to the other villages on the Amalfi Coast. It was more scattered and wide-spread compared to the compact village of Positano. It had a few interesting buildings and a lovely little church, but the small and picturesque harbour, Marina di Praia, appears to be its biggest drawcard.

small and picturesque harbour, Marina di Praia

A little Greek-inspired villa in Praiano

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Another interesting building in Praiano

After getting thoroughly lost in the maze of streets of Praiano, we asked a local for directions and we eventually found stairs down to the sea and the Marina di Praia. On the winding path down to the small beach there were a few upmarket restaurants with terraces affording gorgeous views over the sea.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

Marina di Praia

After a refreshing swim to wash the dirt, dust and sweat off us from the long walk, we jumped on a water taxi back to Positano.

5 Perfect Days in Positano

The beach at Marina di Praia

Where we stayed in Positano

We opted for an Airbnb apartment at B&B L’Uliveto which comprised of a spacious bedroom, bathroom, balcony and a shared living/dining room and kitchenette. It cost around $138 AUD per night (including breakfast), and although the location was a little removed from Positano, it was reasonably easy to catch the local bus up and down to the village.

How we got around Positano

We mainly got around by foot exploring the village’s laneways and narrow streets. I would not recommend driving a car as the roads are impossibly narrow and parking is non-existent in Positano. There are all forms of water transport available to explore the coastline with speedboats, ferries and hydrofoils. To get to our accommodation in Montepertuso we caught the local bus, driven by an imposing man we named “Mario Andretti”. He steered the small bus around the narrow streets and many switchbacks like a racing car driver! One of the highlights of our stay.

In Positano every centimetre of land is prized; buildings are stacked up one above the other on the steep slopes, and the village is throbbing with life and vitality. We relished our time in this old fishing town and at the end of our time here we felt very much “Italian”. They say that sometimes you have to wait a long time for the best things in life and this was one such treat that was worth waiting for.

Linking up with Travel Photo Thursday

 

 

By 50 Shades, September 26, 2017 Kathy was a 50 something year old when she started up this blog 4 years ago, but has since turned over another decade and is now 60. She is married with two adult children and lives on the Gold Coast in Queensland. She enjoys living life to the fullest and loves to keep fit and active by maintaining a healthy diet and exercising regularly. Some of her interests include reading, movies, travelling, cooking and blogging! Kathy works part-time as a freelance writer but her real passion is travelling and photographing brilliant destinations both within Australia and overseas and writing about it.
  • 26

50 Shades

Kathy was a 50 something year old when she started up this blog 4 years ago, but has since turned over another decade and is now 60. She is married with two adult children and lives on the Gold Coast in Queensland. She enjoys living life to the fullest and loves to keep fit and active by maintaining a healthy diet and exercising regularly. Some of her interests include reading, movies, travelling, cooking and blogging! Kathy works part-time as a freelance writer but her real passion is travelling and photographing brilliant destinations both within Australia and overseas and writing about it.

26 Comments
  • Julir
    September 27, 2017

    How beautiful does this place look. nive to see pics of the little villages and laneways. Was the food here good? I can imagine sitting back in a little rustic restaurant eating a pile of pasta cooked by Nonna :)

    • Kathy
      September 27, 2017

      The Amalfi Coast is divine. I’m so glad we stayed in our little Airbnb away from the crowded village of Positano. Everyone comes to Positano on day trips so it gets a little busy. We had some incredible meals here. The pasta is delicious (as evidenced in my waistline when I returned home!) :)

  • budget jan
    September 28, 2017

    I thought the bus drivers were the highlight of the Coast – apart from the views of course. Good on you for walking the path of the gods! Anacapri looks stunning I agree. What a beautiful post. We basically did the same but didn’t go to Capri. Love your photos.

    • Kathy
      September 29, 2017

      Thanks Jan. The bus ride was pretty hair-raising at first but we soon got used to it. The Path of Gods was magical and I would highly recommend this walk. Also Capri was definitely worth the visit. Anacapri in particular was so charming. I could have strolled around it all day! :)

  • Jo
    October 1, 2017

    This area is so picturesque, and as you say, land is highly prized, so it really does seem as if everybody tries their best to make every inch of it beautiful. Wow, the views. Great photo of you on the Pathway of the Gods. I would love to visit and spend a week there off season. We visited the area on the cruise last year, but it was a snapshot only – making me very tempted to return. Loved your photos and tips.

    • Kathy
      October 1, 2017

      Positano is as pretty as a picture. Everywhere you look there are breathtaking views, particularly when you get up high. We had 5 days here and could easily go back to see more of the spectacular Amalfi Coast. :)

  • Ruth
    October 8, 2017

    You have given me a lot of ideas on how to explore the Amalfi Coast on my own. Those views are fantastic. I did a day trip to Capri from Naples but that was it. I still need to see all the beautiful towns. In your photos, not a lot of people appear? During what time you visited? I would like to avoid the crowds as much as possible. #TPThursday

    • Kathy
      October 8, 2017

      Ruth we were on the Amalfi Coast at the end of May when the tourist season was just starting to take off. There were some places that were extremely crowded, particularly if you arrived mid morning to mid afternoon. The trick is to get up early to get your photos before the crowds swarm in. We were happy to have our accommodation high up on the hill above Positano away from the busyness.

  • Michele {Malaysian Meanders}
    October 9, 2017

    Now I am wishing that we had made time to go to Positano when we were in Italy a few summers ago. All your photos make me want to visit. And I definitely like that view from your lodging! With all the walking around, I wouldn’t feel one bit indulgent in feasting at every meal.

    • Kathy
      October 10, 2017

      Yes our legs did a lot of work on those stairs! Of course if you go to Italy you have to indulge in the wonderful food and wine. Sitting on our balcony overlooking Positano was one of the highlights of our trip. Beautiful place. :)

  • packyourbaguios
    October 11, 2017

    First we love the blog name. We have hit that milestone ourselves and enjoyed your shared journey in Positano. It looks like an idyllic destination and combines many of the sights we have seen like the appearance of Rio De Janerio’s colored “Favelas”on the hillsides and “sugarloaf” rock outcroppings out of the sea and the blue ocean views from atop the caldera of Santorini. We bookmarked this for a future outing. The 1300 steps may be a challenge to go up and down though. In Santorini which may be comparable in elevation and grade there were cable cars and donkeys. Not that we recommend the donkeys due to their inhumane treatment but the steps! As you have done the many steps so can we! Thanks for sharing your journey.

    • Kathy
      October 11, 2017

      Hello and thank you for visiting my blog. Positano and the entire Amalfi Coast was stunning. I haven’t been to Santorini but I imagine the scenery would be similar. We only walked down (and I emphasise down!) those 1300 stairs. I doubt whether I would be capable of walking up them! To get back up to our accommodation we caught the local bus, which was an experience in itself. I’m heading over to check out your blog. :)

  • Marvi
    October 12, 2017

    What a splendid vacation! Positano looks like a really charming place to visit. I must agree that every corner is so picturesque from the overlooking views, to the shops and the beaches. Truly breathtaking! :D

    • Kathy
      October 12, 2017

      Positano was a breathtaking place. It is a wonderful part of Italy to spend some time hopping from village to village.

  • Kavita Favelle | Kavey Eats
    October 12, 2017

    You are sooo making me long to go back to this beautiful stretch of coastline, we’ve not been for exactly 20 years! I can’t do as much walking as you, but luckily the amazing views are so prolific one can still find them! Beautiful photos.

    • Kathy
      October 12, 2017

      Oh my! 20 years is a long time. I would imagine it is a lot more touristy and busier now than back then. Yes the views are everywhere along the Amalfi Coast. It’s so picturesque.

  • stephanie Frias
    October 13, 2017

    What a fabulous way to end a memorable trip! The Almafi coast looks so charming, love the village scenery and boutique shops! And look at a that water….wow. You found an amazing AirBnb, too!

    • Kathy
      October 13, 2017

      It was a memorable trip and Italy will be forever etched in my mind. Out Airbnb was fantastic. I loved the location, high above Positano.

  • Neha
    October 15, 2017

    Your pictures are invoking wanderlust in me. Particularly the views from your apartment in Montepertuso. If I were staying there, it would be so difficult for me to leave from the window :) . The streets also look so charming, as if decorated for a celebration. I am definitely going to visit here one day

    • Kathy
      October 15, 2017

      I would high recommend travelling to the Amalfi Coast of Italy. It is a scenically abundant place with gorgeous views from wherever you look. Our Airbnb in Montepertuso was fantastic!

  • Paula - Gone with the Wine
    October 16, 2017

    Wow, such a beautiful place and beautiful photos! I have been in Italy but never on this side of the country. Hopefully I get to return there soon.

    • Kathy
      October 16, 2017

      The Amalfi Coast is a wondrous region of the Italian coastline. It was one of the many highlights of our trip to Italy.

  • Kate
    October 16, 2017

    I feel like I would spend my time staring in awe at everything! I’ve never been to Positano but, it looks strikingly similar to Croatia which I fell in love with. The Path of the Gods hike looks incredible, I bet my legs would be burning after all of those stairs! The terraces and stone homes are everything I think of when picturing Italy.

    • Kathy
      October 16, 2017

      Yes I definitely did a lot of staring at jaw-dropping scenery on the Amalfi Coast. I have also been to Croatia but thought this part of Italy was more scenic. The Path of The Gods was an amazing experience, but yes the stairs are tough!

  • Harsh Gupta
    October 16, 2017

    The panorama of the Amalfi Coast and the offshore islands isn’t letting me sleep tonight for sure! I am already dreaming of the fairytale destination that Positano is. AWESOME IMAGERY!

    • Kathy
      October 16, 2017

      Thank you. It would be difficult to take a bad photo on the Amalfi Coast. It is such a scenically abundant region.

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