Across The Nullarbor We Go!

 

We spent a lot of our precious travelling time in South Australia on our trip around Australia and were amazed by her diversity and beauty. However, it was time to say goodbye and make our way across The Nullarbor to another state and a whole new set of adventures and places to enjoy.

Our Nullarbor experience began with a quick overnight visit to Ceduna to stock up on supplies. But also to ensure that our car and caravan was roadworthy for the 1,200 kilometre trek on the Eyre Highway.

Facts about The Nullabor Plain

For those of you who don’t know, here are some facts about the Nullarbor Plain:

•  The name Nullarbor means in Latin: nullus, “no”, and arbor, “tree”.
•  Is part of the area of flat, almost treeless, arid or semi-arid country of southern Australia.
•  It is located on the Great Australian Bight coast with the Great Victoria Desert to its north.
•  It is the world’s largest single exposure of limestone bedrock.
•  It occupies an area of about 200,000 square kilometres.
•  At its widest point, it stretches about 1,100 kilometres (684 mi) from east to west across the border region between South Australia and Western Australia.

Crossing the Nullarbor, for many Australians, is a quintessential experience of the Australian Outback. Travellers love to buy stickers from roadhouses on the highway that say “I have crossed the Nullarbor”!

Contrary to popular belief, the Nullarbor is densely vegetated primarily with low saltbush and bluebush scrub. There are truck stops or roadhouses dotted along the Eyre Highway every 100 kilometres or so, so there are some signs of civilisation. Otherwise we saw a lot emus, black crows, lizards and a lot of dead kangaroos on the roadside.

Ceduna

At the beginning of The Nullabor is the town of Ceduna, a fishing port and railway hub, located on the Eyre Peninsula of South Australia.

Things to do in Ceduna include:

•  Ceduna National Trust Museum houses a historic collection of pioneer, farm and Maralinga memorabilia and is worth a visit.
•  Walk out along the jetty in Ceduna and try your hand at fishing, crabbing or squidding.

•  Ceduna’s Coastal Walking Trail winds along the foreshore of beautiful Murat Bay for 3.6 kilometres.
•  Take in the views from Pinky Point Lookout at Thevenard end of the walking trail.

• Get some fresh seafood at one of the two fish factories in town or some delectable oysters at Ceduna Oyster Bar.
• Cruise out to the islands of Nuyts Archipelago which are located a few kilometres offshore and dive to catch some Rock Lobster or Abalone. Or just relax on the sparkling beaches on the islands.

Penong

Located right on the edge of The Nullabor, Penong is renowned for its windmill farm. But also boasts some great natural attractions nearby, such as:

• Penong Woolshed Museum
• Cactus Beach, a world renowned surfing spot with great surf breaks such as Cactus, Castles and Caves.

• The pink lake at Lake McDonnell is bursting with bird-life and is tinted a pink hue on one side and blue lake on the other.

• Port La Hunte a pretty little bay with a jetty and an old shipwreck surrounded by large limestone rocky cliffs and white sand dunes.

Head of Bight

An absolute must see on your journey across The Nullabor, is the Head of Bight and the Bunda Cliffs, 290 kilometres west of Ceduna. We’re talking towering coastal cliffs on the edge of Southern Ocean that will take your breath away, with an abundance of marine life.

The Head of Bight main features include:

• The Head of Bight Visitors Centre is at the entrance to the boardwalk and viewing platforms and boasts a cafe, gift shop and picnic areas.
•  A premier whale watching area, in season, where white sand dunes meet the Bunda Cliffs.

•  A purpose built boardwalk and viewing platforms gives fantastic views of the Southern Right whales and the towering cliffs into the pounding Southern Ocean.

Nullarbor Bunda Cliffs

There are three coastal lookouts to view the dramatic limestone Bunda Cliffs. They are well sign-posted stretching for 200 kilometres.

WA/SA Border Village

At Border Village you will cross the border from South Australian into West Australia. The quarantine checkpoint is where most fruit, vegetables and certain plant material will be confiscated from your car and caravan. You are best to dispose of it first before crossing the border.

There is a huge signpost marking the border of WA/SA just through the checkpoint.

Eucla

11 kilometres from the border is the small town of Eucla that is the largest settlement on The Nullabor Plain. It features the historic Eucla Telegraph Station ruins.

There is a submerged jetty and some beautiful white-sanded beaches adjacent to the jetty to check out.

Madura Pass

Take a photo from the top of the Madura Pass with stunning views of the Roe Plains.

Caiguna

From Caiguna to Balladonia is one of the longest straight stretches of road in the world. It is nothing more than a roadhouse or service centre. However, there is an unique blowhole 5 kilometres west of Caiguna.

Balladonia

Balladonia is another roadhouse stop along the Eyre Highway, 181 kilometres west of Caiguna. Here you can visit the Balladonia Cultural Heritage Museum and the crash landing site of NASA’s Skylab in 1979.

Fraser Ranges

On the edge of The Nullarbor, midway between Balladonia and Norseman, you see the welcoming sight of the scenic Fraser Ranges of granite hills and the hardwood forests. Here you may stop by the Fraser Range Station which is steeped in history. There are camping sites or self-contained cottages available here if you wish to stay a while.

Norseman

In the Goldfields-Esperance region of West Australia, we terminated our adventure across The Nullabor, at the gold-mining town of Norseman. It was getting back into civilisation for us after four days on the road.

There are few highlights that are worth checking out in Norseman, including:

•  Pay a visit to Phoenix Park, where winding pathways lead you by relics and informative signs telling the stories of Norseman’s past.
•  Drive up to the top of Beacon Hill for 360 degrees views of the goldfields, the tailings heap, the Fraser Ranges and the township of Norseman.

•  Take a photo of the tin camels on the roundabout into town.

•  Learn about how Norseman got it’s name by checking out the bronze statue of the horse, called Norseman, that started the goldrush in the area.

Nullarbor Links

Make sure you pack your favourite golf club and putter and play the ‘world’s longest golf course’ across The Nullarbor.  Imagine teeing off in Ceduna, South Australia, and tallying your score card 1365 Km’s away in Kalgoorlie, Western Australia, on outback-style natural terrain fairways? Each participating town or roadhouse along the Eyre Highway hosts a hole on the 18-hole par 72 gold course.

The Nullarbor was a travel experience like no other. Each day brought forth her magic, with timeless landscapes of forests, grasslands, tablelands, rugged coastline, Australian wildlife and snow white dunes. I was enthralled with her beauty.