One Week in Naples, Ischia and Amalfi Coast

Following two weeks in Puglia I caught a train across the middle of Italy to Naples. The train took me through vast farmlands and through mountain ranges. The scenery was spectacular in parts. Four hours later, I arrived in Naples and immediately headed to the Port of Naples to catch a ferry across to the island of Ischia.

Naples is the gateway to the islands of Ischia, Proceda and Capri, but also to the stunning Amalfi Coast and the extraordinary lost city of Pompei. So there are plenty of things to keep you busy in this area for at least a week to ten days. My mode of transport for my week long itinerary was by train travel.

Ischia

The island of Ischia is a volcano, that last erupted in 1302. Hence, it is home to 103 natural thermal springs that are extremely popular with Italian weekenders and holidaymakers. The island was primarily agricultural prior to it becoming a popular spa island retreat.

Having previously spent a day on the island of Capri on my last holiday in Italy, I decided to spend three days relaxing on this lesser known island of Ischia. It was with relaxation in mind, after a busy travel itinerary of three weeks, that I decided to treat myself to a gorgeous family run hotel in Sant’Angelo on the southern coast of the island. I think I chose well.

Ischia is around an hour’s ferry ride from Naples. The ferry arrives into Ischia Porto, which is centrally located on the island. From here it was around 40 minutes by taxi to reach the small coastal town of Sant’Angelo.

Sant’Angelo

I would describe Sant’Angelo as an upmarket beach resort location with it’s hilly terrain and volcanic rock island protruding out into the sea. The villas and hotels are mostly located on the steep hill overlooking the sea with magnificent views. However, they are a little challenging to get to!

I discovered upon arrival that there were golf carts ready to transport you and your luggage up the steep incline to the majority of the hotels and guest houses. The road wound it’s way up the hill to my accommodation, where the driver delivered my luggage to my hotel’s entrance.

My accommodation at Villa Saint Maria Sant’Angelo was enchanting in a typical Mediterranean style with beautiful hand-painted tiled floors throughout, spacious rooms with balconies overlooking the sea. The breakfast and dinner experience on the terrace that was served up freshly each day, was both plentiful and delizioso.

My days were spent exploring the local village, the chic boutiques, exquisite ceramics, seaside restaurants, bars and cafes. Although there are a couple of beaches here, I did not don my swimsuit and take a dip in the sea. However, there were plenty of tourists who were doing exactly this.

Sailing Around Ischia

On my last day in this paradise I booked a full day sailing trip around the island that included drinks, snacks and a delicious seafood lunch. I was picked up in Sant ‘Angelo and taken to the port at Forio, where I boarded the boat.

Aboard the yacht, as we circumnavigated the island, we saw sea caves, sparkling turquoise waters, interesting rock formations, small towns dotting the coastline of the island, and the spectacular Aragonese Castle on it’s own rock island.

Our skipper for the day took us to different parts of the island where we swam, snorkelled and had plenty of time to relax in the sun. At each stop we enjoyed snacks and drinks, including glasses of prosecco or wine. As it turned out, the skipper was also a skilled chef and cooked up tasty mussels, clam pasta and tomato pasta, served with crusty bread.

Aragonese Castle

We anchored nearby Aragonese Castle on one of our stops and learned the history of this magnificent fortress built on a volcanic rock. The castle dating back to the fifth century BC was built by Hiero of Syracuse and was then founded by the Romans in 315 BC, who built the city of Aenaria at the foot of the castle. The castle has been privately owned by the Mattera family since 1912 who have relentlessly restored the original structures from the damage sustained by volcanoes, the English bombing in 1809 and almost total dereliction.

Aragonese Castle is open every day for tourists who can wander around the island to check out several churches, crypts, the convent, a prison, wine cellars, many viewpoints and a couple of cafes.

Il Monastero, previously built as a convent on the island between the 16th and 18th centuries, is now a hotel that overlooks the bay and the village of Ischia Ponte. Guests can explore the castle and the island at their leisure when staying here.

Salerno & Amalfi Coast

After relaxing on the island of Ischia for three days, I took the ferry back across to Naples and caught a train to the city of Salerno on the southern end of the Amalfi Coast. I had previously spent five days in the village of Positano on my last trip to Italy, so wanted to stay somewhere different.

Salerno is located at the southern end of the Amalfi Coast and is a great alternative to staying at Sorrento or any of the other villages on the coast. It is still just as handy to the main attractions on the Amalfi Coast and there are regular ferry services to all the spots along the coastline. The other bonus is that is easily accessible by train from Naples, only taking one hour.

Salerno is a port city, but does have an extensive promenade and adjoining beach areas. However, there is the more popular and attractive beach located nearby at Vietri sul Mare, a short distance out of town. The city features a well-preserved historical centre characterized by medieval, winding streets. It also has a medieval castle Castello di Arechi, dating back to the 6th century sitting high on top of a hill overlooking the city.

On my wanderings around the old town I visited the the almost 1,000 year-old Salerno Cathedral, the church of San Pietro a Corte founded in the 8th century, and the exquisite Baroque church – Basilica della Santissima Annunziata from the 14th century with a striking facade and a bell tower covered in beautiful green majolica. 

Day Trip to Amalfi & Positano

On my second day in Salerno I caught a 35 minute ferry to Amalfi. Vying for a seat on the top deck of the ferry so that I could take photos, I found it extremely difficult to get any clear shots. Upon arrival into the town of Amalfi, it was bedlam at the ferry terminal and in the streets of the town. The crowds were here in force on this particular day.

I decided to take a tour through the Amalfi Cathedral (Duomo di Sant’Andrea), Cloister of the Paradise, the Basilica of the Crucifix that houses a museum, the Crypt, and the Cathedral of Saint Andrea. The cathedral facing out onto the main square is built in unique striped marble and stone, in an Arab-Norman style.

Due to the large crowds in the square I decided to stroll out to Amalfi Lungamore, a scenic uphill promenade along the seafront with cafes, beach clubs and gorgeous views over the Mediterranean Sea. After a long lunch and glass of Aperol spritz, I decided to get back on the ferry and make my way down to Positano.

It was like déjà vu! Positano remains unchanged with it’s impossibly steep hillside with colourful villas clinging to the cliff face. The harbour is small and crowded, making it extremely difficult to get on and off the ferry. There is a small rocky beach laden with beach chairs and very over-priced bars and restaurants lining the seafront.

The are many shops selling typical wares such as brightly coloured Italian print clothing, linen, limoncello, and vibrant painted ceramics. All exorbitantly priced for the tourist trade.

Minori & Maiori – Path of the Lemons

I decided to undertake a hike high above the Amalfi Coast between the villages of Maiori and Minori, on my final day in Salerno. It was a very short ferry trip from the terminal to Maiori, where I walked a short distance from the port into the town centre to access The Path of the Lemons.

Maiori is renowned for having the longest stretch of beach of all the Amalfi Coast towns. Upon arrival into the jetty I couldn’t help but notice what looked like a fairytale castle, better know as the coastal towers. This castle was built between the 9th and the 17th century, for the purpose of defending the city from invasions. 

Once I walked down the main street of Maiori I discovered a sign to the stairs that take you up to the Path of the Lemons. There are 400 stairs up – my legs felt every single one of them, and 400 stairs down to the village of Minori. But once you start seeing the beautiful landscape unfold around you the pain is worth it!

The Path of the Lemons is a scenic trail connecting the two towns of Minori and Maiori. The trail passes through the lemon groves that produce the famous lemons of this area and gives magnificent coastal views en route. The distance of the path is only 3 kilometres, but with stops along the way it takes an hour or more to complete it.

Once you arrive into Minori it is worth a quick look around this village and maybe a refreshing dip in the sea. Minori or Maiori, in my view, would be a much quieter and relaxed place to stay on the Amalfi Coast, as it’s not on the scheduled ferry service that runs between the more famous towns on this coastline.

Naples in a Day

Following three days in Salerno, I caught the train back to Naples and decided to spend a day here seeing the sights of this ancient city. Although, on first impression it looks a little dirty and grungy, I discovered that Naples had a certain charm about it and certainly emits a lively and upbeat atmosphere.

The main highlights of Naples are:
– See the street photography on the facade of Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary, Duomo di Napoli.

– Stroll down the Decumanus of the ancient city of Neopolis, filled with shops, restaurants, and pastry shops.
– Stop at Piazza San Domenico for a coffee and sweet pastry.
– Check out the ceramic design on the church and spectacular cloister of Sant Chiara. 
– Enjoy the street food and the famous pizza that was born in this city.

– Marvel at the life-sized Cristo Velato or Veiled Christ statue.
– Visit Piazza Plebiscito featuring the Royal Palace, Opera House and Caffé Gambrinus (famous cafe).
– Wander around the medieval fortress of Castel Nuovo (New Castle).

– Take in the best viewpoints of Naples. First, the magnificent Castel Sant’Elmo and secondly, the former monastery Certosa di San Martino.
– If time permits see Castel dell’Ovo – the oldest castle in Naples in the waterfront district of Chiaia.
– As an alternative to visiting Pompei, head to Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli (National Archaeology Museum of Naples).

If you look beyond the graffiti-laden buildings and dark, dank and narrow laneways of Naples, it will surprise you with some extraordinary sights. What I loved the most about it was the vibrancy of the streets with buskers and performers everywhere and the wide array of yummy and cheap food for sale.

My Italian trip had come to an end and it was time to head back on the fast train to Rome for my flight. The highlight of my week in this region of Campania was without a doubt my stay on the island of Ischia. I could have easily spent more time here relaxing.