East Kimberley – Wyndham, Kununurra & Lake Argyle

The East Kimberley region covers an area of 121,000 square kilometres and is renowned as an adventure destination. The towns of Wyndham and Kununurra are perfect to use as a base from which to explore and participate in your great Kimberley wilderness adventure.

A very remote region with extremes of temperature and rugged terrain, it is advisable to visit the East Kimberley region during the dry season, that is generally from April to October. However several people that I encountered recommended seeing the area during the wet season when torrential rains transform the normally dry landscapes into a deluge of water in the rivers, creeks and gorges and thunders down mountain faces forming waterfalls. A dramatic transformation!

Wyndham

The most north-westerly town in Western Australia, situated on the Cambridge Gulf, is Wyndham. The ‘Top Town of the West’, has a colourful history of early explorers, gold rush days, pioneering cattle families and the construction of the Wyndham Meatworks in 1913.

Wyndham typifies the true character of the Kimberley region with its fascinating history and spectacular rugged natural beauty. Based from Wyndham, you can access: the many breathtaking ranges that surround the town; the Cambridge Gulf; the infamous Gibb River Road that takes you deep into the Kimberley region; and the five rivers of the King, Durack, Forrest, Pentecost and the mighty Ord.

What To Do In Wyndham

There are plenty of things to do and see in Wyndham:

1. Drive to the Bastion to Five Rivers Lookout and absorb the sweeping views and spectacular sunsets. The breathtaking views of sandstone escarpments, expansive mud flats, woodland and boab outcrops, from this lookout formed the backdrop for the classic movie, ‘Australia’.

   

2. Visit the Port township precinct that was established in 1885 with many authentic old buildings from the gold rush days, including the Six Mile and Wyndham Town Hotels and the Wyndham Museum.

   

3. Check out the largest Boab tree in captivity at the Wyndham Caravan Park.

   

4. Take a photo with the ‘Big Croc’ at the entrance to the town.

   

5. Appreciate the Aboriginal culture of the area by visiting the Warriu Dreamtime Statues, that are giant bronze figures depicting an Aboriginal family and native animals.

   

6. Go bushwalking and birdwatching at the Marlgu Billabong in the Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve.

   

7. Dive into the refreshing waters of the Grotto – a natural amphitheatre, with a waterfall that feeds the deep pool.

   

8. Fish from the banks of the King, Pentecost or Ord Rivers and try to catch a Barra.

   

El Questro Wilderness Park

Only a short drive out along the Gibb River Road, 58 kilometres from Wyndham, is the El Questro Wilderness Park. The name El Questro conjurs up images of a western town from an old Western movie, with the rugged Cockburn Mountain Ranges forming the backdrop. All that is missing are the Cowboys and Indians and the Cacti!

It is almost 1,000,000 acres in size with a diverse landscape of broad tidal flats and rugged sandstone ranges, to rainforest pockets, gorges and waterfalls. Animal and birdlife congregate at waterholes and the four river systems are home to all kinds of fish, including the mighty Barramundi.

First stop was Emma Gorge where there is a resort offering eco-tent style accommodation, a bar, restaurant and gift shop. The scenic trail into the gorge takes you along a rocky creek bed with changing vegetation to crystal clear pools and waterfalls. The gorge is characterized by massive scree slopes and cliff face escarpments reaching up to 120 metres on both sides of the trail. At the end of the trail you can enjoy a refreshing swim in the icy plunge pool of Emma Gorge Pool and Falls.

A further 11 kilometres along a sealed road, is the turnoff to El Questro. Although a dirt road, it is in fairly good condition. However there are several creek and river crossings that you have to negotiate, so it is strictly 4WD only. The drive through the park is very scenic and there are various turnoffs into places of interest, such as:

• Zebedee Springs – a short walk through lush Livistona and Pandanus Palms to thermal springs and pools.
• El Questro Gorge – trek along a spring-fed creek through palms and fern-clad escarpments which brings you to a small swimming hole.
• Champagne Springs – a challenging walk that takes you along the Pentecost River to a series of clear pools and a spring-fed waterfall.
• Moonshine Gorge – a circuit trail walk with great views and leads into tall cliff faces and Livistona Palms on both sides with several waterholes to rest and swim in.
• Chamberlain Gorge – a leisurely boat cruise through spectacular river gorges.
• Explosion Gorge, Pigeon Hole and Saddleback Ridge – are all 4WD tracks that take you over rugged and challenging terrain to spectacular lookouts, waterholes and secret fishing spots.

  

There is a range of accommodation at El Questro Homestead to suit all tastes from luxury to secluded riverside campsites. Tours are available from the homestead such as helicopter flights, horseback rides, barramundi fishing, bush culture and history tours and 4WD adventures. You can then eat and drink at the station’s Steakhouse Restaurant and the Swinging Arm Bar, including a traditional Aussie BBQ feast every Saturday night.

Kununurra

One of the youngest towns in Western Australia – Kununurra, was established through the construction of the Ord Irrigation Scheme. The extensive waterways and the rugged landscapes that surround the town offer a huge variety of choices for those wanting to experience the real Aussie outback.

Set on the beautiful Lake Kununurra, that was formed by the construction of the Diversion Dam, the lake is a huge water-sports playground. The Diversion Dam was the first stage of the Ord Irrigation Scheme to regulate and maintain water flow to the irrigation area and manage wet season flood levels.

Located just minutes from Kununurra, is Mirima National Park (Hidden Valley), that is a small park with sandstone ranges, cliffs and valleys, similar in appearance to parts of the Bungle Bungle Range. You can take the lookout walk that takes you to the top of the range and provides panoramic views over the Ord Valley and surrounding sandstone ranges.

From Kununurra you can  take some day trips including: cruising the Ord River by boat; or taking a scenic flight over the Bungle Bungles, the massive Lake Argyle, Argyle Diamond Mine and the stunning Mitchell Plateau. Also don’t miss a visit to the Arygle Diamond showrooms in town to see the unique and rare pink diamond.

Kunnunura is renowned for its vast sandalwood plantations and you can take a look at how they process the sandalwood into oil at the Sandalwood Factory.

Lake Argyle

Nestled amongst a billion year old landscape of the Carr Boyd Ranges, Lake Argyle has a surface area of over 1,000 square kilometres, a shoreline stretching 900 kilometres and holds 18 times more water than Sydney Harbour.

Now if that doesn’t impress you then maybe the words of Dame Mary Durack, Australian author and member of the Durack family, the original leaseholders of Arygle Station and where Lake Argyle is located today.

“If one were to paint this country in its true colours, I doubt whether it would ever be believed. It would be said at least the artist exaggerated greatly, for never have I seen such richness and variety of hue as in these ranges.” ~ extract from the novel Kings in Grass Castles.

Lake Argyle is home to an estimated 25,000 freshwater crocodiles, some 150,000 waterbirds and 26 species of fish. Then there are the flying foxes, the wallabies, the frilled neck lizards and more.

Amongst the many things to do, there are boat cruises, scenic flights, bushwalking, birdwatching or hire a boat and get out on the lake island-hopping, water skiing, swimming and fishing.

A visit to the relocated Argyle Homestead is also a must see to wander through the relocated stone built cottage and learn about the history of the Durack family who originally ran a cattle station where the lake stands today.

The Lake Argyle Resort offers a range of accommodation from lake view villas, cabins, outback safari huts to caravan and camping sites. An infinity edge pool overlooks the rocky escarpments and the vast expanse of lake, and has one of the best views in the world. The resort also boasts a shop, cafe/restaurant, bar and entertainment, including trivia nights, singer/guitarists and the Sunday night roast dinner. Delicious!

If I were an artist and I could paint a canvas to portray the beauty of the East Kimberley, people would be astounded with what they saw. I can only photograph and describe the scenery, but it is so much more – it was like stepping onto that russet red canvas and becoming part of the painting. It was truly astonishing and it simply took my breath away!